Guide to Hiking the Calanques in Cassis
- Summer Atwood
- Apr 29, 2018
- 6 min read
Updated: Jan 21
This was the most beautiful and most rewarding hike I have ever been on. Yep, that's saying a lot – I am an avid hiker and outdoor enthusiast who has ventured up Mountain Tamalpais, trekked across the Oregonian forests, and bush-wacked my way through many a trail – and this Calanques hike in Cassis could very well be the #1.
West of the charming and absolutely stunning harbor town of Cassis lie three picturesque calanques – Port Miou, Port Pin, and Port d'En Vau. For those of you unfamiliar with the term, calanque is a French word for an inlet that is nestled between soaring cliffs. Hikers, wanderers, and photographers alike travel from all around to bask in the glory of these calanques. So, naturally, during our two night stay in Cassis my brother Nick and I made it our quest to explore these inlets and see what all the hubbub is about.
For those of you interested in discovering these calanques for yourself (which I HIGHLY recommend you do at some point in your life), allow me to walk (ha ha) you through our adventure and offer tips and tricks along the way.
On Friday morning at 9:00 AM Nick and I embarked on our journey. Starting from the main harbor in Cassis, we walked to the southwest most point and turned west. From there, we strolled along the seaside and followed signs reading "les calanques" while staying on the Avenue des Calanques. (Side note: Many people recommend starting the hike from the first calanque, Port Miou, where there is a car park, but for those staying in Cassis I recommend walking to the first calanque – you get to stroll through neighborhoods with amazing villas along the way!) Eventually, you will see a sliver of blue dotted with colorful boats and then you will begin your descent to Port Miou.
Port Miou is a treat for the eyes but is not best suited for swimming, as it is riddled with boats and docks and planks. As such, we took time to take photographs of the picturesque harbor and admire the view before continuing on our hike. By this time it was about 9:45 AM.
On the way to the second and third calanques, I recommend following the red/white trail markers, which provide the fastest route. There is also a scenic blue trail option that goes along the bluffs, but I think it is nicer to do that on the way back (a bit of a reward for making it all the way).
Following the red and white trail markers, we reached the second calanque, Port Pin, in about half an hour. Serene, still, and small, this calanque is ideal for a dip and a rest. As we were intent on making it to the third and final calanque (which we were warned could be a bit of a challenging and enduring hike), we decided to take only a few moments to soak in the view at Port Pin and then trek on.
This is where the hike gets a bit more challenging. We continued to follow the red and white trail markers, which led us up, up, and up. It was a good half an hour or so of incline – so strap on your hiking boots and prepare to work your glutes!
Eventually, after some good ol' huffing and puffing, we reached the top. Take a few moments here to embrace the views and feel good about yourself for climbing up the mountain, because then it's back down you go!
Across the plateau at the top, the red and white trail leads you down the mountain at quite a steep decline – we're talking hopping down rocks and scooting down on your rear at some intervals. I actually really enjoyed it – it's a chance to embrace one's inner Tarzan! The skipping between rocks and sliding down the mountainside lasts for about 30 minutes. When you reach the bottom, head left on the flat path – this will lead you to the last calanque, Port d'En Vau.
Perhaps it was the heat of the sun, or the fatigue from the hike, or my own personal drama, but when we stepped through the trees and onto the rocky beach of the final calanque, I thought I would burst it was so beautiful. The midmorning light, cresting just above the immense cliffs on either side of the inlet, struck the water in such a way that it seemed to glow from within. It was an effervescent, iridescent, cerulean blue – the kind of blue you find in a daydream.
Without a second of hesitation, my brother and I stripped down to our swimsuits and ran into the water – instant bliss. It was one of those moments of pure and utter happiness, of no worries and no extraneous thoughts, of full presence and appreciation. It was a moment I will never forget.
We swam and floated and dove and frolicked until the freshness of the April sea gave us goose bumps. We stayed at the beach for about three hours – eating our sandwiches, basking in the sun, watching families and hikers splash in the water, and getting totally sunburnt (don't forget to bring sunscreen like we did!) Eventually, the small beach became very crowded (I definitely recommend getting there on the earlier side) and our skin began to sting (I also definitely recommend sun protection), so we packed up, kissed the sea goodbye, and prepared ourselves for the intense trek back.
Remember that trail I talked about earlier where you have to jump down rocks and slide down the mountainside? Yeah, well, turns out you have to hike back up that too. We reached the foot of the trail, looked up, and saw a string of hikers cascading down the mountain on their pilgrimage to the infamous Port d'En Vau. In this moment, my brother and I gave each other a look that said both "Gee, I'm glad we got there early" and "It's going to be a tough journey back." But as they say, onward and upward!
We pushed hands against knees to propel forward and spotted each other when climbing up slippery limestone. The hoards of people coming down the mountain were something interesting to watch, a distraction from the difficult uphill climb. We saw a barefoot woman in a long flowing dress, holding her flowing hair back and clutching her heeled wedges as she carefully tiptoed down the mountainside. Shortly after her followed a man in a wide brim sunhat carrying a beach umbrella and a cooler. Nick turned to me and said, "That dude's going to give the scariest piggy back ride of his life on the way back up." I chuckled, thinking that was probably true, but I was proud of that lady for getting somewhere and making it happen – even if she didn't have the proper hiking equipment. After a good forty minutes of pulling ourselves up rock faces and jumping from ledge to ledge, we finally made it back to the top. We both decided that in the end it wasn't even that bad! So do it, definitely do it. The hike down and up to the last calanque is more than worth it!
At the top, rather than crossing back to the red and white trail, we went right on the scenic blue trail. I highly recommend taking the blue trail on the way back because it leads you to a lookout point where you can see Port d'En Vau from above – and see just how far you've come. It is both stunning and rewarding. The blue trail follows the coast the entire time, so you are never without a glistening blue view. It was truly lovely. Once you reach Port Pin, the blue trail ends and the rest of the hike back is on the red and white trail.
I must admit, by this time Nick and I were feeling a bit hungry, a bit thirsty, and more than a bit sunburnt, so our main priority was making it back to town for shade and sustenance. We trekked on full speed ahead and eventually returned to the Cassis harbor at around 4:30 PM. So yes, it is an all day journey – but it is the best all day journey to do!
Before heading back to our hotel and taking cold showers, we stopped to enjoy a chilled smoothie and laugh about our adventures. That day spent outside, under the sun, and hiking the calanques was one of my favorite days of my whole year abroad, and I've had so many amazing days. That being said, if you are ever in Cassis, I beg you – no, I implore you – to hike to the three calanques. It is the adventure of a lifetime!
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