Day Trek: Royal Gorge Cross Country Ski Resort

Clad in skin tight pants and Skida hats, rosy-cheeked and lips chapped, we brace the biting winds, turn our faces towards the sun, and glide off into the tree-lined trails ahead. Slick with ice then slushed under sun, the skinny ski tracks wind on among sugar pines and Sierra junipers dawning white winter coats. It's cold and the wind makes it colder, but the continuous swish, slide, swish, slide of our skis keeps us warm. I breathe in a full inhale of crisp, cool air and exhale smiling. It's good to be in the mountains again.

There’s something about a crisp mountain morning that lights a fire in me. It’s why I crave days like this, why I keep seeking out trails, mountains, and fresh air. And it’s exactly why I started my latest blog series, Day Trek, where we'll explore all the mountain places and activities accessible by San Francisco in the space of a day. So let's dive in—skinny skis first.

Royal Gorge Cross-Country Ski Resort is about as pristine as cross-country ski resorts come. Located in Soda Springs and just next door to Sugar Bowl, it's the largest cross-country ski resort in North America with eight distinct trail systems and 92 trails—all boasting panoramic views of the stunning Northern Sierra. From tree-laden trails, to wide open meadows, to stunning vistas, there is a variety of beautiful terrain. And the eight different warming huts strategically placed throughout the sprawling trail network ensure that there is always a place to cozy up or brace a storm. With a loyal following of both seasoned professionals and curious beginners, Royal Gorge has something for everyone. So that's where we went.

What time to leave San Francisco: a 5:30AM departure will get you to Royal Gorge around 8:30AM, right when it opens.

What to bring: 

• Cross-country ski gear: Rossignol Evo Cross-Country Skis (rentals available at Royal Gorge too!)

• Quick-drying layers: my go-to layers are:

  • Base Layer: Patagonia Capilene Cool long sleeve

  • Mid Layer: Patagonia R1 Air Zip-Neck

  • Accessories: Skida Alpine hat, Skida Alpine neckwarmer, Smartwool gloves

  • Leggings: Lululemon Align

  • For extra chilly days: Arc'Teryx Atom Hoody (pro tip: shop Arc'Teryx ReGear for a more affordable and sustainable option)

• Trail Snacks: Granola bars, dried mango, mixed nuts, jerky (hanger is the #1 threat to outdoor fun!)

• Water & electrolytes: I swear by Liquid I.V. or LMNT for hydration boost.

• Sunscreen: Snow glare is real—don’t skip this!

Where to stop along the way: without fail, I make a point to stop at The Pour Choice in Auburn every time I drive to Tahoe. I dream of their Field Spice latte and plate-sized chocolate chip cookie.

How long to stay: this is up to you, but if you go on a weekend day (especially a Sunday) I would recommend either leaving around 1:00pm or in the evening around 8:00PM to avoid traffic. We arrived at Royal Gorge at 8:30AM, skied for a few hours, left at 12:30PM, stopped in Auburn at The Pour Choice for lunch, and made it back to the city around 4:30PM. It was short and sweet and stress free.

Which trails to take: as previously mentioned, Royal Gorge has no shortage of cross-country ski trails. When we went, we weren't looking to stay out longer than 2-3 hours, so we did a lovely little loop around Kidd Lake that totaled about 8 miles. Check out the map below.

Map courtesy of Royal Gorge.

It may be a lot of driving for a little skiing (I'll admit a 2:1 driving to skiing ratio is tough to swallow), but the time in the car is a small price to pay for days like this. For that first glide on fresh snow. For the hush of the trees. For the feeling of winter settling into your bones in the best way possible. And when you return to the city, tired but content, you’ll know—it was absolutely worth it.